Friday, June 24, 2022

Argh! etc..

 My mentor, Spartan-C, gave me a gob of industrial control switches long years ago.  Square D or Siemens Electric type 9001 operators and the associated contact blocks that fit on them.  Pulls from equipment, no doubt.  

I had what I needed, or hoped I did.  I got a few frills from eBay, a red mushroom head for stop, an on off switch, some legends for the buttons, and some inserts for the buttons.  Everything went together fairly well today.

Pay no attention to the 3 reds with the raw ends  They are a whip for the door switch ;)

Double checked everything, all the wiring was correct and tight.  Then I got to the ON / OFF switch.  It was hanging out on the porch about 1400 local (1900 Zulu) today.  

back side  KA2 is red, KA1 is clear
brand new


Remember that little graphic from a few weeks months back?  😲


When I got to the contact blocks, I ran into an issue.  You see, make before break is a thing.  I needed the NO start contact to make BEFORE the NC stop contact breaks.  With two buttons that's easy, just don't fiddle with the stop button when you start it.  But the way those 9001 contact blocks work, it ain't that cut and dried.  I toyed with the idea to trim off the plunger on the K2 NC block.  But I wound up reading the catalog again...

Type K, SK, and KX Electrical Components

...and found the K5.  

BEHOLD!  The mighty K5 delayed break NC contact block.....

Thanks eBay, I'll get one more part.....  I could use a KA4, but those are like twice as expensive as this is.   So, it's working, but not quite to perfection yet...  I just bypassed the KA2-NC stop block.  Oh well, wait a little longer to push it to the wall....

Update:  Atlas Workshop Drill Press

I  finished cleaning the old drill press.  The chuck was pooped.  Rusty, tight, worn out, no key....  So, I dug up one.  Same brand, looks different, had a couple keys and it's smooth.  Good jaws, so the grip is nice.  Decided to buy some wedges to pop off the old one.  Made short work of it.

Exploded diagram?

Need to install the chuck on the spindle, that's a cleaning job and a quick whack with the brass hammer.

Then erl the bushings.  Fit is nice on those, too.  Not a lot of wear in the old timer.  Then a new belt.  I'd like something that is quieter running.  Add a switch to the cord and Bob's your uncle.

THEN.....  I can drill those tiny boogers in the Logan cross slide project that has been gathering dust...  

Every project gets side projects just to keep me honest I guess....

Thanks for hanging out in the shop today, come by anytime.



  1. Your electronics knowledge is about ten levels higher than mine. Glad you getting it figured out. I'll be ready for you to help me tackle mine around late September.

    Before you install a new drill chuck on the DP, drill and tap a 3/8-24 thread thru the ID of the chuck body so next time it needs removing, just install a bolt and jack the drill chuck off the spindle.

    1. Too late..... But it has a hole in the bottom so I can punch it off. Or, I can use my nifty wedges....

      Sure thing. I'd be happy to help. running wires seems to be something I can do okay in my current "dropped phase" state.

  2. Oh, maybe while are at it, add a child/adult proof key locking switch in place of the on-off switch you currently have in place. Just a thought.

    1. Hey man, I don't appreciate that. I specifically don't get child proof med bottles. They are impossible to open. Now you want to keep me from using my own stuff????? Oh the humanity..... I can only imagine the frustration of hanging a "Adult Supervision Required" sign on my shop and not being able to the open the door..... *(Sarcasm Off)*

      Current drill is to flip the red switch on the RPC, walk to the lathe, and turn the key, then..... push the proper button to get it to turn.... that combination of events is nearly overwhelming now.

  3. I'd love to come down there with a box of coffee and a box of donuts and have an impromptu lecture on power distribution, STxAR. I am more an instrument basher and for me high voltage is 24V, and my babies talk to each other on 4~20mA.

    Can you slow down for the stupid kid? Why are you futzing around with NO and NC switches? And contactors? I'd a thunk just a normal switch would do...?

    1. Well, I'm playing at the "real world" I guess. I have a breaker, the contactor and the VFD to run the lathe. The VFD is on when the power is on. I'd rather have a way to shut if off if I'm not using it. Opening the control box and flipping the breaker isn't gonna be easy when I get it placed and that's not a kosher way to run anyway (so says my old journeyman in my head). The contactor allows me to have an on off switch. I really want to protect the expensive VFD from browning out when I drop the rotary phase converter. I don't have three phase in the shop, so I have to make it. I'm not sure about up there, but down here, three phase is commercial use only.

      It also prevents the VFD from firing back up in the event of a power interruption. But in my reading, there is a software setting that will do that for me. So, the old school electrician meets the 1990s.... but that was also part of my reasoning.

      Is that enlightening or obfuscating? Crystal or clear as mud?

    2. PS: I like blueberry cake donuts best. I have coffee unless you like a particular brand.

    3. PPS: This old lathe came with industrial switches back in the 60's when it was made. I'm just kind of reproducing that since I had them in stock. Of course until I found I DIDN'T have them in stock. I'm old school on some things. I like tactile feel and membrane switches don't seem to last long unless it's a Timex Sinclair PC from the 80's. I still have a couple of those around here somewhere.....